Race Rules


If a race says to follow "official" rules, we mean that we're racing like the kids do every year.

  • Weight will not be over 5.000 ounces by official scale.

  • Entire car, including wheels and axles will be 2.75 inches wide or less, and 7 inches long or less.

  • Width between the wheels is 1.75 inches minimum.

  • Cars will use the pre-cut axle distance.

  • Bottom clearance between car and track is 3/8".

  • No bearings, washers, bushings, or springs. Free-wheeling, no "devices".

  • Cars must run on the standard derby plastic wheels, using standard derby nails or axles.

  • Only dry lubricants, like graphite, are allowed.

  • Car must pass inspection, and the race officials can request car adjustments during check-in.

Additional MDnA rules:

  • If any car has modifications that go against the "spirit" of the traditional race, officials may require changes during check-in.

  • Officials reserve the right to allow exceptions within the "spirit" for vintage vehicles.


If a race has an "outlaw" circuit, we're starting with a standard kit, but we're turning a blind eye to the standard rules.

All we ask, is that cars will not damage the track, electronics, spectators, time/space, or other cars in any way. So, no rockets, no Ben Hur spikes, no flux capacitors, etc.

During check-in, race officials will need the driver to explain the "outlaw" modifications, and can disqualify cars from running, if they have any concerns.


Kits can be found at multiple locations around town, as well as online. The local Scout shop always has their high-quality kits available, as well as weights and other accessories. The kits at the Scout shops are the most authentic, and come with everything you need, minus weights, for less than $5. You can also find kits year-round at the local hobby and arts/crafts stores like Hobby Lobby or Michael's.